Jean Independence day - Not yet.

As promised next up on the sewing agenda was my version of Sewaholic's Thurlow Trousers 1203 but in the shorts (view B) version (confused? Me too). 

I loved Tasia's sample pair of stretch denim trousers as seen in her pattern introduction post, in fact these inspired me to make my own version and hopefully kiss goodbye to the dreaded task of trying on hundreds of pairs of jeans and never quite being happy with the fit. 

The first step in the process of what I will from hence forth call Jean Independence, is testing this pattern out on my lumps and bumps. I decided to go ahead with the shorts first to gauge fit, before cutting into the 3m required to make the trousers. I never quite fall into any perfect size chart. On normal patterns I am a 10 bust and 12-14 (usually 14) waist and hips. In sewaholic Patterns I am 6-8 bust, 8 waist and 6 hips. I decided to go with size 8 as I was concerned the 6 might be too snug around my waist. I also decided to skip the welt pockets on the rear and forgo the belt loops as I won't be wearing a belt with these shorts. I used a cotton sateen I picked up from spotlight for the main fabric (not sure about this choice as I have never sewn with this type of fabric before) and for the lining I am using a funky fabric called Foal Cotton, Poplin Magic.  The colour is a dark grey (and hard to photograph), so I thought this would be a good neutral colour to team with heaps of T Shirts and button down shirts (that I will make soon, haw haw).

The first few steps in the pattern making process are to do with assembling the front pockets, can I just say that this went together like a dream, so perfect and looking so damn professional. I did sew 2 rows of stitching at the base of my pockets as I am pretty rough with them being a hands in pockets kinda gal. 

Dual stitching lanes!

Front pocket detail.

Once I hit the fly it was kind of all downhill from there. As I have said before I am fairly new at sewing garments and this is most definitely my first ever pair of shorts/trousers that have included a fly. In all fairness to Tasia and the (intermediate level) pattern, the department that was lacking was me. I am sure that the instructions would be adequate if you had sewn a more basic pair of pants with a fly or mock type fly before or just had some sort of idea of how the fly comes together, and I am sure that an intermediate sewer would know this. Now I have made these once and have a feel for it, I am sure the second pair will be quicker and easier. 

Help I am out of focus and out of my depth!!!!
(I don't normally pin and iron on this little board, in my lounge room but hey a change is as good as a holiday!)

Moving on my other issue was the fit, they are wayyyyyy to big. I ended up redrawing the sewing line at the rear from the bottom notch, angling it out to 1 inch from the original sewing line. This equated to taking 2 inches from the waist. I am not 100% happy with the look from behind (ha ha) but I am sure that is to do with the amount of fabric taken out and most likely the way in which I did it (and quite possibly the actual size of the rear) .  Next time I will make a size 6 and possibly still have to take some from the waist but I think the end result will be a better looking bottom!!! i might also consider ironing!!! 

Bottom too big? (mine that is)

All in all I think an advanced beginner would be able to handle this no problems if they had had some kind of trouser/fly experience or someone to refer to for help.

The finish ended up not too bad, certainly fine to wear at home or if brave duck up the shops for bread.

Any thoughts? Feel free to advise on all I did wrong and suggest improvements if you have any ideas.
I still love this pattern and plan on continuing with Jean Independence, but I might try a basic pair of pants first. Or hope Tasia does a tutorial on all the bits I got wrong (ie the whole thing).

On a brighter note here is a peak at my next project ......

 Have a great weekend!!

Dana

Thurlow Shorts On The Cutting Table

Photo Credit: Darren M

Next up in my sewing queue are Thurlow Shorts 1203 by Sewaholic Patterns.
This one lives up to it's reputation of "The Pattern of Many Pieces" (ooh ok, I just made that up). I HATE tracing patterns, I procrastinate, I mope and sook- basically anything to avoid the act of tracing out a pattern. I hate cutting fabric out too, but not quite as much because I at least I feel like I have started, whereas tracing doesn't feel like I have made any headway at all.

Photo Credit: Darren M

But folks the good news is, I have completed tracing AND cutting on this baby, she is all ready to be magicked into the aforementioned wonderful.

I have chosen a cotton sateen (I think) for the main fabric in a grey and a whimsical poly for the lining.
I didn't realize until I cut the waistband facings, that my print will be sideways as it is a directional print. Not nearly as cute as I had planned. Also, the sateen has a small amount of stretch so I hope that will not be a problem for the overall fit.

I have decided to make the Thurlow Shorts the standard length without the cuffs, even though I think a second time round will see me make them 2 inches longer. I have also decided to omit the welt pockets in the back as I haven't made welt pockets before and know mine will turn out crap. I am not scared to try new things but I would like these shorts to be publicly wearable as I am trying to build my summer wardrobe since I am desperately short of clothes that fit (sigh).
As I am off for a little bike ride tomorrow, I am not sure when I will have these finished.

Till then...

P.S If you like my pattern weights and are interested, I was inspired by this tutorial. They have been finished for about a year now and no issues with rust.

Almost Iris..... Iris shorts

Almost Iris - With cute pocket.

In case you missed it... Sarai of the wonderful Colette Patterns released her Spring/Summer 2012 range the other day. While I love the 2 dress patterns Lily and Hazel, I am not really a pretty dress kind of girl, although I have to say my taste is evolving as I grow older and learn to sew more complex (ha) garments.. but I digress. Iris, now Iris blew me away......... I had, just HAD to have this pattern and since for the first time ever the 3 new patterns are available for download, I didn't have to wait 2 weeks for the mail to arrive (or pay international postage). How great is that?

So I got busy and downloaded Iris asap.... Now I am usually a board shorts girl because I like the longer length but I like this pattern because Iris just looks so pretty and she has inseam pockets!!!!! Love!!
I was super keen and cut and taped my pattern together right away. Cutting is quickest if you cut away the right hand side and the bottom of each page for easy taping together with minimal fuss.

I cut a size 6 as it corresponded to my measurements. My fabric choice was the left over red denim from my Minoru. I knew the denim would be difficult to sew in some areas of this pattern but I didn't have any other medium weight fabric handy, and well I wanted to make these shorts now!!!!

I was a very busy bee, all day long (beginner Sewist) but the pattern came together easily, instructions clear, pattern pieces match up where they should. It was all fairy floss and candy until I had one leg sewn and was ready to install the invisible zipper, I tried the old one leg in whilst holding the other side to see how they will look and fit - Iris does not fit me in this size. Boo hoo.

It was all downhill from here... I thought "Hey I have come this far, lets finish Iris anyway". I went on to install a faulty invisible zipper, then break the next invisible zipper.... at this point I gave up. The pictures are the way this Iris will remain.

I am not sure what went wrong size wise but no biggie, all I have to do is make the next size up. The fabric is left over from a prior project and if I really want red denim shorts (which I think I do) I still actually have enough left to make another pair.

Yes, that might be a broken (not) invisible zip and chipped nail polish or it could be a really cute inseam pocket with some gingham lining.

The bottom line is this pattern is really great, easy for a beginner, cute as hell and those pockets!!!! I LOVE these little pockets.


Dana

Sorbetto in Green

I know I said that I usually don't work on my sewing class projects at home but this is an exception to that rule. For some reason I had a really big urge to make my first Sorbetto, and make it now. The weather here in Sydney is extremely changeable at the moment and I felt like I needed a new Summer top, while I am also planning my first Winter top.  I had originally downloaded the free PDF pattern, from Colette Patterns way back when I started my sewing class in October last year. I just never got around to sticking it all together, I have no idea why.

I spent most of the remainder of last class (after completing Jasmine) sticky taping, cutting and learning how to make the bias binding, I whipped up the top during the week at home (incredibly fast and easy top to make) and waited for my class early this week to finish sewing the binding pieces together then binding the armholes and neckline. My teacher had me sew the binding to the wrong side first, then fold over to the right side and hand baste down. I am actually glad that I did this step as it mean't that I had the placement perfect before sewing and it certainly was easier to sew without my usual 100 pins holding everything in place. I finished off machine sewing the binding down and finishing the hem at home.

Front View

I have mostly quilting weight cotton in my stash because I made bags and gifts for the first year of my sewing life. This is a Heather Bailey Pop Garden according to the fabric selvedge.

Shoulder Detail

 Normally I do not like yellow but there is something about this fabric that I have always loved.

Back View

I am definitely planning on making another one of these, as with Jasmine, in a lighter weight fabric.
I am as yet (having not worn it out) undecided on the length of Sorbetto, I will see how it is out and about, but I may yet add an inch or two if it feels to short.

If you are checking out the blog for Colette Patterns type Sorbetto in the search bar, Sarai has a few tutorials on variations for this pattern. Scalloped hem anyone?

Dana

Linen Sailor Jasmine

I attend a sewing class 1 night a week. It is really less like a class and more like a sewing night with help as we do not work to a schedule but rather just take in whatever pattern we wish to work on. We have a teacher who makes sure we are doing everything correctly and is there for help when we have questions. I like to separate my sewing class projects from my at home projects, generally not working on the class items at all during the week at home.

Term 1 is almost over and I only managed to finish 1 project so far. I did take an entire class to cut out my pattern pieces because I talk to much! I made a Jasmine 1018 from Colette Patterns having picked up the Colette Sewing Book and pattern package shortly after Christmas.
My Jasmine was made out of red linen with a tiny houndstooth pattern, the collar/tie and sleeve cuffs were made from the same fabric in a navy which I joked would either look great or make me look like a 5 year old boy. I made version 2, with the shorter tie.

I made a size 6 without making a muslin for fit. It was the first project I have ever made on the bias. I was quite concerned about cutting everything correctly but had no problems at all thanks to my teachers explaination. I had read horror stories about pulling fabric on the bias and ending up with an out of shape Jasmine but thanks to prior warning I was extra gentle and avoided any such problems.

This is the outcome......

Not keen on having my photo taken :(

I am not entirely sure if I love it or not. Perhaps a second opinion would help? The ladies at my class quite like it, I am sure I would be sold if I had made it in something recommended fabric wise, but alas I never listen. I had never used linen before and just wanted to own something made of it. The tie sits somewhat stiffly because of the drape of the fabric. Looking at other Jasmines out there, mine is pretty big, maybe comically so? I am sure I could go down a size no problem.

I have picked up a lovely cotton lawn to make this again but perhaps Version 1 with the longer ties and gathering at the sleeves? Yes, I think so.

Dana

Minoru Completed! A labour of Love.

Yahooo, finally I have completed my Minoru Jacket. It was a tough day in the sewing room today but we made it.

Today I started from step 15 alternative to slipstitching cuffs to completion. Step 15 nearly killed me, death by pins in the tips of my fingers, that is until I came to my senses and basted the sleeve lining. Then life became a little easier.

Next was stitch in the ditch, and an all new nightmare begun. I will confess to doing this step 4 times before giving in and stitching over the top stitching on the hood piece, it looks okay, not as good as it should but I can live with it. My problem was my main fabric was red and the lining was ivory, if I used only red thread and the line got a bit wonky (lots of people found this happened due to layers) the red line showed on the lining. I changed to ivory thread in the bobbin and I wandered onto the red hood. Now I know I can sew a straight line but this step, I hate to say...... whipped my butt.

Finally I was at the waistband stage, now I thought this might be difficult but really the hardest part of the waistband was locating some 2 inch wide elastic!!! But I managed to find some, so I breezed through this step, I even had time for a quick cup of tea.

And finally we arrive at hemming and done. This bit was pretty easy on the central back piece but I found my jacket hem wanted to pull out of shape a touch on the side back panels. I also had to trim the bottom of my pocket as I had put it in just a touch to low, but they are still very much usable and still a good size for my hands.

End result: I love this jacket and cannot wait to be able to wear it. Bring on a cold Winter!!!
Would I make it again? Yes I think I would, but not out of denim, in fact I would like a charcoal one to wear to work.

My fringe is not really like this!!! It was windy.

Can you see my pockets?????

I was so excited to finish I begged my husband to go down to the park to take a few quick snaps. The colour seems hard to capture in a photograph and I am straight from the sewing room. It is still quite hot so I did look funny to people passing by.

Also a quick note if you head on over and visit Noile she has posted Minoru Jackets from around the world..... and I made it on her post Whooo Hooo (prior to jacket completion of course).

Dana

Renfrew Top Take 2

A few weeks ago (or there abouts) I got around to making another version of the Renfrew Top from Sewaholic Patterns (to see the first version click here).  I really like "V" neck tops, I have always thought they look nicer on me than the "rounded" neckline. I have actually made 2 versions of the "V" neck. 

The first V neck I made in size 6 (no pictures sorry as it made in the same fabric) but I must have been tired when tracing because when I was making this version and comparing pattern pieces I realized that the waistband was a size 4. Although the first V neck is wearable and fits, I prefer version 2 (pictures below).

In both versions I had some difficulty sewing the "point" of the V. I figure next time I might baste it into position first, to stop any slight shifting when sewing the band on. You can see in the close up below that they are just a bit off centre.

Although I have an overlocker I still prefer to sew the Renfrew on my sewing machine, using the overlocker to finish the seam allowances only.
I know there has been a post or two out in blogland saying that the zigzag stitch looks a little homemade but I have no objections. I used the zigzag detail on all the bands for strength and a more consistent look.

This version is a size 8 and loose enough for my liking.

I did try to take some photos of myself wearing this version, but was not keen on the results. Next time perhaps?

This fabric is just a plain Jersey knit from spotlight. I picked up a large quantity for $2.50 a metre so expect to see the next few Renfrew tops in the same fabric. As Winter is on the way I will most likely experiment with a 3 quarter sleeve and possibly the cowl neck version.

Minoru Progress Report

Finally a progress report on my Minoru. I have uploaded a few quick pics taken about a week or so ago. Since then I have finished the cuffs and today I have completed Sewaholic step 13, as per Tasia's blog post.

As you can (sort of) see the collar zip and a lined version of the hood are all systems go. I did have a small hiccup with the hood zipper. I originally brought a dress zipper for the hood thinking I wanted something discreet. However, after sewing the cut out window I realised that my zip just wasn't going to fit. The dress zip was too narrow and somehow too short. I am pretty sure that this error is somehow my fault and most likely not a pattern fault as it is the first time I have ever done this. I ended up using the zip that I had purchased for the front of the jacket, just adjusting the length. I was happy with the end look but cranky with myself when I tried to find a replacement zip the same. I had purchased the zip at the Fabric Store and was unlikely to get a chance to go back there any time soon. I went to all my locals but no luck, there is a long story about how I came to find the exact replacement but I fear it is too boring to tell. So, the short version goes something like this .... I have a new zipper!!!! Yay.

Here is a photo of the heroic replacement zipper in all its basted glory (kindly modelled by Snow White the dress form).

I really love this pattern and get more and more excited about it as time goes by (imagine what I will be like when I finally finish it) but from the outset I was really hoping to get some external pocket action happening. Tasia put up this post  directing us to Amy of Sew Well's tutorial  for adding side seam pockets. I took the detour and was very happy with the outcome. Amy even provides a download for the pattern pockets so you can get moving with the sewing and not cry at the thought of drafting your own. The pockets were super easy to sew in and the tutorial was extremely clear to follow.

Amy does suggest using the lining fabric as fabric for the pockets but I am a little rough with pockets and wanted something strong. I ended up just using the outer fabric. Here you can see how discreet they are.

As I said I am now very much further along than this but I will have to save that update for later in the week.

Happy Sewing!
Dana

Renfrew Top

Hi everyone, sorry about the lack of posts. Yes, I am still sewing along with Tasia in the Minoru Jacket Sew-A-Long but we are at a bit of a road block. I will take a few photos on the weekend and write an update on the jacket progress thus far.

In the meantime can I introduce you to another of Tasia's patterns?
The Renfrew Top from Sewaholic Patterns.

Click to go to the Sewaholic pattern store

I received my copy in the mail late last week and have been itching to make one up. I only had a metre of 150cm wide (60") knit fabric in my rather small stash so it was neck line view A with sleeve length view B that I made up this afternoon. The pattern recommends more fabric than this, and I did really squeeze it out.

Front View

A closer view of cuffs and neckline
(sorry about the wonky photo)

Waist band

Overlock (serger) detail. (hmm, my hands look old in this photo)

Back view

Sorry I know the photos could be better. I was excited to finish but it is just about my bedtime and  so they are quite dark.

I made size 6 as the measurements were pretty spot on for me. After making this version I might try the next size up if I purchased fabric with a similar amount of stretch. I would like a fraction more room in the bust and hips. Having said that, this probably fits me better than any store brought Tee I have purchased in a long time.

This Renfrew was sewn on my sewing machine using a zigzag stitch, seam allowances were neatened up using my overlocker (which I am still trying to master). 

Very happy with the outcome, I will definitely make again. Next time the V neck perhaps.

Happy sewing peeps

Dana