Jean Independence day - Not yet.

As promised next up on the sewing agenda was my version of Sewaholic's Thurlow Trousers 1203 but in the shorts (view B) version (confused? Me too). 

I loved Tasia's sample pair of stretch denim trousers as seen in her pattern introduction post, in fact these inspired me to make my own version and hopefully kiss goodbye to the dreaded task of trying on hundreds of pairs of jeans and never quite being happy with the fit. 

The first step in the process of what I will from hence forth call Jean Independence, is testing this pattern out on my lumps and bumps. I decided to go ahead with the shorts first to gauge fit, before cutting into the 3m required to make the trousers. I never quite fall into any perfect size chart. On normal patterns I am a 10 bust and 12-14 (usually 14) waist and hips. In sewaholic Patterns I am 6-8 bust, 8 waist and 6 hips. I decided to go with size 8 as I was concerned the 6 might be too snug around my waist. I also decided to skip the welt pockets on the rear and forgo the belt loops as I won't be wearing a belt with these shorts. I used a cotton sateen I picked up from spotlight for the main fabric (not sure about this choice as I have never sewn with this type of fabric before) and for the lining I am using a funky fabric called Foal Cotton, Poplin Magic.  The colour is a dark grey (and hard to photograph), so I thought this would be a good neutral colour to team with heaps of T Shirts and button down shirts (that I will make soon, haw haw).

The first few steps in the pattern making process are to do with assembling the front pockets, can I just say that this went together like a dream, so perfect and looking so damn professional. I did sew 2 rows of stitching at the base of my pockets as I am pretty rough with them being a hands in pockets kinda gal. 

Dual stitching lanes!

Front pocket detail.

Once I hit the fly it was kind of all downhill from there. As I have said before I am fairly new at sewing garments and this is most definitely my first ever pair of shorts/trousers that have included a fly. In all fairness to Tasia and the (intermediate level) pattern, the department that was lacking was me. I am sure that the instructions would be adequate if you had sewn a more basic pair of pants with a fly or mock type fly before or just had some sort of idea of how the fly comes together, and I am sure that an intermediate sewer would know this. Now I have made these once and have a feel for it, I am sure the second pair will be quicker and easier. 

Help I am out of focus and out of my depth!!!!
(I don't normally pin and iron on this little board, in my lounge room but hey a change is as good as a holiday!)

Moving on my other issue was the fit, they are wayyyyyy to big. I ended up redrawing the sewing line at the rear from the bottom notch, angling it out to 1 inch from the original sewing line. This equated to taking 2 inches from the waist. I am not 100% happy with the look from behind (ha ha) but I am sure that is to do with the amount of fabric taken out and most likely the way in which I did it (and quite possibly the actual size of the rear) .  Next time I will make a size 6 and possibly still have to take some from the waist but I think the end result will be a better looking bottom!!! i might also consider ironing!!! 

Bottom too big? (mine that is)

All in all I think an advanced beginner would be able to handle this no problems if they had had some kind of trouser/fly experience or someone to refer to for help.

The finish ended up not too bad, certainly fine to wear at home or if brave duck up the shops for bread.

Any thoughts? Feel free to advise on all I did wrong and suggest improvements if you have any ideas.
I still love this pattern and plan on continuing with Jean Independence, but I might try a basic pair of pants first. Or hope Tasia does a tutorial on all the bits I got wrong (ie the whole thing).

On a brighter note here is a peak at my next project ......

 Have a great weekend!!

Dana

Thurlow Shorts On The Cutting Table

Photo Credit: Darren M

Next up in my sewing queue are Thurlow Shorts 1203 by Sewaholic Patterns.
This one lives up to it's reputation of "The Pattern of Many Pieces" (ooh ok, I just made that up). I HATE tracing patterns, I procrastinate, I mope and sook- basically anything to avoid the act of tracing out a pattern. I hate cutting fabric out too, but not quite as much because I at least I feel like I have started, whereas tracing doesn't feel like I have made any headway at all.

Photo Credit: Darren M

But folks the good news is, I have completed tracing AND cutting on this baby, she is all ready to be magicked into the aforementioned wonderful.

I have chosen a cotton sateen (I think) for the main fabric in a grey and a whimsical poly for the lining.
I didn't realize until I cut the waistband facings, that my print will be sideways as it is a directional print. Not nearly as cute as I had planned. Also, the sateen has a small amount of stretch so I hope that will not be a problem for the overall fit.

I have decided to make the Thurlow Shorts the standard length without the cuffs, even though I think a second time round will see me make them 2 inches longer. I have also decided to omit the welt pockets in the back as I haven't made welt pockets before and know mine will turn out crap. I am not scared to try new things but I would like these shorts to be publicly wearable as I am trying to build my summer wardrobe since I am desperately short of clothes that fit (sigh).
As I am off for a little bike ride tomorrow, I am not sure when I will have these finished.

Till then...

P.S If you like my pattern weights and are interested, I was inspired by this tutorial. They have been finished for about a year now and no issues with rust.